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1st Bangladeshi Journalist in World to Summit Mount Everest
By Ataur Rahman
Bangladesh Correspondent
Dhaka, Bangladesh — Musa Ibrahim, the first Bangladeshi and Journalist in the world to summit Mount Everest, exclaims that it has been an exhilarating experience.

Its official now! Musa Ibrahim is the first Bangladeshi to scale Mt Everest.

He has been given the official certificate for his feat. Komal Aryal, who was maintaining communication with Ibrahim in Mt Everest, in an e-mail, confirmed bdnews24.com about the official recognition. He also quoted part of the certificate given by the Tibet Mountaineering Association on Wednesday.

It said, "This is to certify that, on 2010 May 23 at 6.50am Md Musa Ibrahim Bangladesh reached the top of the peak of Everest, Chomolungma of Mt. Everest."

Musa Ibrahim, the first Bangladeshi to summit Mount Everest, had exclaimed that it has been an exhilarating experience.

The Prime Minister of Bangladesh Sheikh Hasina greeted young mountaineer Musa Ibrahim for conquering Mount Everest.

In a congratulatory message, she said Musa Ibrahim has brightened the image of Bangladesh in the world by hoisting red-green Bangladesh flag atop the highest peak on earth.

"The countrymen including me are proud of his victory and overwhelmingly delighted," she said. By conquering the Everest, the Prime Minister said Musa, an heir of plane land, has proved that the Bengali nation is a heroic nation and no obstacle is unconquerable for them. She wished him every success in life.

Speaking from the Everest Base Camp on the north face, he told journalists Tuesday: "It was extraordinary!"

Ibrahim, is a Journalist (sub-editor) of an English daily newspaper, is the first Bangladeshi to claim to have conquered the highest peak in the world.

Journalists Ibrahim said that near the end of the ascent, his oxygen pipe began to leak but the Sherpas managed to fix the problem. "Summiting Everest is a challenge. I have done that," he said. Earlier he told the German international broadcaster that there is a statue of Buddha at the Everest summit. "A photograph with that statue will verify my summiting." He also said that he will be given certificate of the achievement at the base camp on the basis of photographs and testimony of the other team members.

He said that it had taken a long time, hard work and single-minded dedication. "But in the end it paid off." Ibrahim started his formal mountaineering in March 2004 after completing basic training from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI), Darjeeling in India. In Oct, 2005 he got advanced training form the same institute.

In early May he left Dhaka for the expedition and joined the international expedition team of the Himalayan Guides. Himalayan Guides Nepal provides all types of support services for mountaineering expeditions on Everest. Musa used the North Alpine route on the Tibetan side to reach the highest peak of the world. As a member of H G International Everest Expedition 2010, he claims to have successfully scaled 8,848 meter Mt Everest in the morning of May 23, 2010. All 26 members of the expedition including 14 Sherpas reached to the summit. Besides Musa, six Britons, three Montenegrins, an American and a Serb were on the team.

Before taking on Everest Musa claims to have climbed the Annapurna IV (7,525m, 24,688 ft) in May 2009 and Langshisa Ri (6370m) in Dec 01, 2008. The lead Sherpa Som Bahadur Tamang, who accompanied Musa on the Everest expedition, has been with him in his earlier expeditions.

"The official certificate will be given by the Tibetan Mountaineering Association on the basis of the report of the Sherpas and photographs taken by the team from the Everest summit," said Mir Shamsul Alam Babu, a veteran mountaineer.

Babu was Musa's team mate on his previous expeditions. "It is now certain that Musa has summited," he said. The northeast ridge route begins from the north side of Everest in Tibet. Expeditions trek to the Rongbuk Glacier, setting up Base Camp at 5,180 m (16,990 ft) on a gravel plain just below the glacier.

To reach Camp II, climbers ascend the medial moraine of the east Rongbuk Glacier up to the base of Changtse at around 6,100 m (20,000 ft). Camp III (ABC - Advanced Base Camp) is situated below the North Col at 6,500 m (21,300 ft). To reach Camp IV on the north col, climbers ascend the glacier to the foot of the col where fixed ropes are used to reach the North Col at 7,010 m (23,000 ft). From the North Col, climbers ascend the rocky north ridge to set up Camp V at around 7,775 m (25,500 ft). The route crosses the North Face in a diagonal climb to the base of the Yellow Band reaching the site of Camp VI at 8,230 m (27,000 ft). From Camp VI, climbers make their final summit push. Climbers face a treacherous terrain from the base of the First Step: 27,890 feet - 28,000 feet, to the crux of the climb, the Second Step: 28,140 feet - 28,300 feet.

The Second Step includes a climbing aid called the "Chinese ladder", a metal ladder placed semi-permanently in 1975 by a party of Chinese climbers. The ladder has almost become a fixture and has been used by virtually all climbers on the route.

Once above the Second Step the inconsequential Third Step is clambered over: 28,510 feet - 28,870 feet. Subsequently, the summit pyramid is climbed by means of a snow slope of 50 degrees, to the final summit ridge. The northern approach to the mountain was discovered by George Mallory on the first expedition in 1921.

Earlier he told the German international broadcaster that there is a statue of Buddha at the Everest summit. "A photograph with that statue will verify my summiting."

Before taking on Everest Musa claims to have climbed the Annapurna IV (7,525m, 24,688 ft) in May 2009 and Langshisa Ri (6370m) in Dec 01, 2008.

The northeast ridge route begins from the north side of Everest in Tibet.



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Mr. Ataur Rahman serves as Bangladesh Correspondent for The Seoul Times. He eanred his Master of Commerce degree from Dhaka University in 1985. Mr. Rahman has vast journalistic rexperience including his stints at "The Daily Janata" and "The Dainik Bangla."

 

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